Where to Stay, Eat and Explore in Scotland, From Edinburgh to the Highlands

In the past, Scotland was rarely considered a prime summertime destination, unlike Italy or the south of France. But with temperatures rising in southern Europe and travelers increasingly drawn to cooler, less-crowded alternatives, Scotland is emerging as an alluring choice for a July or August break. With a coastline stretching over 11,000 miles, the country has dazzling cliffs and bays to explore, some with sandy beaches perfect for an icy ocean dip. And you don’t even need good weather to see many of Scotland’s top sites–when the clouds roll in and the landscape is shrouded in mist, it’s arguably even more romantic.

Consider pairing a trip to the Highlands (and coastline) with Edinburgh, where you can soak up dramatic landscapes and lochs as well as award-winning restaurants and landmarks like Edinburgh Castle. To help you make the most of your time, we’ve done the hard work and mapped it out for you. Follow this handy itinerary and you’ll quickly see why Scotland is one of this summer’s hottest destinations.

Where to Stay

Book at 100 Princes Street and enjoy a slow breakfast at The Wallace, the hotel’s plush library, bar and dining room. (Angela Sun/Chase Travel)

Even if your hotel isn’t in an actual castle, it’s likely in some kind of heritage building—this is Scotland, after all. Case in point: The Balmoral, a Rocco Forte Hotel in Edinburgh. Housed in a landmark clock tower, the property offers fresh takes on traditional Scottish design married with softer modern touches like powder-blue paneled walls. For the best view of Edinburgh Castle, though, choose the maximalist, tartan-lined hotel 100 Princes Street, which has a strict guests-only policy in the lounge, bar and restaurant to ensure privacy and personalized service. Soon to open is Clayton Hotel St. Andrew’s Square, Edinburgh, set on the famous garden square.

Farther north, the mountainous Highlands region has an abundance of grand country hotels where you can cavort about in nature. One of the finest, Gleneagles, is a playground for adults: a soaring mansion from the 1920s on an 850-acre estate with three championship golf courses. Equally impressive is Newhall Mains, a collection of beautiful stone buildings on a family-owned property from 1830. Dornoch Castle Hotel, also near a golf course, is perfect for those who love history and brown liquor, with a dungeon that dates back to the 15th century (now used for private dining) and a bar that stocks around 350 whiskies, including rare bottlings from closed distilleries. On Royal Scotsman, A Belmond Train, Scotland, you and 35 other passengers can see nooks of the Highlands that might be harder to access by car.

What to Eat and Drink

Need to refuel? You can carbo-load at Little Capo, a beloved Italian spot in Edinburgh. (Clair Irwin/The Infatuation)

While Edinburgh’s food scene has long been shaped by Scottish heritage, it now offers far more than the traditional Scotch pies, savory pastries usually filled with meat, and Cullen skink, a creamy chowder (though you can still get those, too). A classic restaurant to try is Stockbridge Eating HouseOpens overlay, where diners gather around a large shared table for hearty plates of deviled lamb’s kidneys and duck-fat fries. For something a little lighter, the all-day restaurant ArdfernOpens overlay serves Shetland mussels best mopped up with sourdough, alongside a healthy selection of wines. New to the scene is The Gilded Saloon, a pub-style spot serving classics such as rarebit and lamb with mint. And if you’re craving Italian, Little CapoOpens overlay is the perfect spot for large bowls of pasta.

The Highlands may be remote, but its hotels have never used that as an excuse—least of all in the dining room. Gleneagles creates elaborate picnics, for which house cars deliver wicker baskets filled with swirls of local smoked salmon and tea cakes. A 20-minute drive away is The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, set in Scotland’s oldest working distillery, as well as Gloagburn Farm Shop, a restaurant and shop where you can stop by for a coffee or lunch of fresh ingredients from the farm. Of course, you can’t possibly miss a Sunday roast—and Newhall Mains has one of the best, complete with roast beef, cauliflower cheese and Yorkshire puddings. And Dornoch Station hotel is nearby some noteworthy establishments: It’s a short walk from Carnegie Whisky Cellars, with an extensive selection of whiskies from all over the country, and The Highland Larder, a kiosk that serves a real summertime treat: beer-battered haddock and fries just off the beach.

What to Do

At Gleneagles estate, the surrounding landscape offers opportunities to do everything from golfing to horseback riding.

In Edinburgh, where to begin? With the 900-year-old castle, of course—conveniently located in the city center. Take a guided walking tour of the site, and consider chasing it with a distillery visit to sample the local gin and whisky. From the capital, you can take day trips up to the Highlands on private luxury SUV tours, which are a great way to see Glencoe and the surrounding area. You can take in the dramatic scenery from the car, but be sure to get out every once in a while to explore iconic landmarks such as Linlithgow Palace (the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots), Stirling Castle, the Glenfinnan Viaduct and train (which has a star turn in everyone’s favorite wizarding movie) and the mystical Loch Ness.

If you choose to stay at Gleneagles in the Highlands, you’ll want to take advantage of the expansive grounds and all the activities on offer, from golfing to fishing to riding. Pick Newhall Mains instead and you’ll have access to on-site whisky tastings, as well as guided day tours to remote castles and fishing villages. The hotel also has a private boat that’ll whisk you along the coastline, searching for whales and birds, followed by a barbecue lunch on the beach.